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Burkini: What It Is, How It Is Built and How to Choose One

Two burkini sets laid flat on linen: a navy hooded two-piece and a teal printed three-piece with a separate headcover
HauteFlair EditorsOctober 202617 min readSwimwear Guide
Straight Answer

What is a burkini?

A burkini is a full-coverage swimsuit made of a long-sleeved tunic, ankle-length swim pants and a hood or swim headcover, so it covers everything except the face, hands and feet. It is made from the same quick-drying stretch fabrics as other swimwear and is designed to be swum in, not just worn on the beach.

The name blends burqa and bikini, but a burkini does not cover the face. It was created in the mid-2000s by Australian designer Aheda Zanetti so that Muslim women could swim and play sport while keeping their dress code, and it is now also worn for sun protection, comfort and personal preference by people of every background.

Choosing one comes down to four things: the fabric, how loose the tunic is, how the head covering is built and how it fits once wet. A good burkini stays opaque, does not balloon in the water and keeps the hood in place when you swim.

Want coverage without the head covering?Our modest swimwear guide covers every level of coverage, from tankinis and swim dresses to long sleeves and leggings.
Modest Swimwear

For a long time, the choice for anyone who wanted to swim fully covered was a swimsuit under ordinary clothes, which turns heavy and dangerous in water.

The burkini solved that with swim fabric and a few smart construction details. Most of what makes one good or bad comes down to those details, and they are easy to check once you know where to look.

The Short Version
  • A burkini is a three-part swimsuit: a tunic, swim pants and a hood or headcover, in swim fabric.
  • It covers all but the face, hands and feet, and is made to be swum in.
  • Choose matte, lined or textured fabric in a mid to dark color so it stays opaque when wet.
  • Loose but not baggy: a tunic that skims the body hides the outline without filling with water.
  • Check the hood: a fitted inner cap and a snug face opening keep it in place when you swim.
  • Rinse after every swim and dry it in the shade, like any swimsuit.
3parts: tunic, pants and a hood or headcover.
2000sthe decade the burkini was designed in Australia.
UPF 50+the sun rating many burkini fabrics carry.

How a Burkini Is Built

Five parts, each designed so the suit covers fully on land and still works in the water.

The parts of a burkini: a hood or separate headcover, a loose tunic, long sleeves with fitted cuffs, and ankle-length swim pants The parts of a burkini123451Hood or headcoverAttached hood or a separate swim cap2TunicHip to knee length, loose through the body3Long sleevesFitted at the wrist so they stay put4CuffsElastic or banded to stop water ballooning in5Pants or leggingsStraight, wide or slim; ankle length
The five parts of a burkini. The dashed line marks an inner swim cap, which holds the hood in place under water.

A burkini has a tunic, which is a long-sleeved top that reaches anywhere from the hip to the knee; a pair of swim pants or leggings to the ankle; and a head covering, either a hood attached to the tunic or a separate swim headcover worn over a cap. Each part is made from swim fabric, which is light, stretchy and quick to dry, rather than the woven cotton or polyester used in everyday modest clothing.

The tunic is cut loose through the body so it does not show the outline of the figure, but not so loose that it fills with water. The sleeves are fitted at the wrist and the pants at the ankle, usually with elastic or a band, so water cannot rush in and balloon the fabric. The best designs also have a lined chest, flat seams and a little stretch through the shoulders so you can swim a full stroke.

Two burkini sets laid flat on sand-colored linen: a navy two-piece with a hooded hip-length tunic and straight swim pants, and a teal printed three-piece with a knee-length tunic, slim leggings and a separate swim headcover
Two common builds: a two-piece with an attached hood, and a three-piece with a separate headcover and a longer tunic.

Types of Burkini

Burkinis vary in how many pieces they have, how long the tunic is and how loose the cut is.

Style What it is Best for
Two-piece Tunic with an attached hood, plus pants Simple dressing; the hood cannot slip away from the tunic
Three-piece Tunic, pants and a separate headcover Choosing your own head covering; easier to adjust
Long tunic Tunic to mid-thigh or knee The most coverage over the hips; relaxed swimming
Short tunic Tunic to the hip Active swimming; less drag and less fabric in the water
Sport or fitted Closer-fitting tunic and leggings Laps, surfing and water sports
Relaxed or loose Looser tunic and wider pants Beach and pool days where the outline matters most
Skirted A skirt layer over the pants A dress-like look on land

A two-piece burkini has the hood sewn to the tunic, so it cannot separate from the neckline and leave a gap. A three-piece has a separate headcover, which lets you choose the shape and fit of your head covering and replace it on its own. Many people prefer three-piece sets because head coverings are personal and fit varies so much.

Tunic length is the main trade-off. A longer tunic covers the hips and thighs and hides the outline of the body best, but it adds fabric that drags and floats. A shorter tunic at the hip is easier to swim in and is the usual choice for sport and surfing. Sport burkinis also cut the tunic and pants closer to the body, while relaxed styles keep both loose.

The part that most often decides whether a burkini works in the water.

There are three common designs. An attached hood is sewn to the tunic and usually has an elastic or banded face opening. A separate swim headcover is pulled on like a cap and drapes over the neck and shoulders, under or over the tunic neckline. An inner cap, sometimes built into the hood and sometimes sold separately, sits close to the head underneath and holds everything in place.

What to Check
Face openingSnug but not tightIt should frame the face without pressing on the forehead or chin, and stay put when you turn your head.
Inner capBuilt in or separateAn inner cap keeps the hood from sliding back when you swim or dive. Long hair fits more easily under a separate cap.
Neck drapeLong enough to tuckThe drape should reach well below the neckline so the neck stays covered when you raise your arms.
FabricLight and breathableA thinner, more breathable fabric at the head stops it feeling hot on a sunny beach.
Inside of a navy burkini tunic laid on white linen, showing the attached hood with an elastic face opening, a fitted inner swim cap, a long sleeve cuff and the chest lining folded back
The details that matter: a snug face opening, an inner cap, a fitted cuff and a lined chest.

Burkini Fabric

The fabric decides whether a burkini stays opaque, dries quickly and survives the pool.

Fabric Feel Chlorine resistance Good to know
Nylon and spandex Soft and very stretchy Lower Comfortable; best for sea swimming
Polyester and spandex Slightly firmer, holds color Medium to high The best all-round choice for pools
Chlorine-resistant polyester or PBT Firm, less stretch High For frequent pool swimmers
Textured or crinkle swim fabric Raised surface Depends on the fiber Hides the outline and clings less when wet
Lightweight swim jersey Very light, breathable Varies Often used for the headcover

Look for matte, lined or textured fabric. Shiny, thin, single-layer fabric clings and can turn sheer when wet, which defeats the purpose of the suit. Mid to dark colors and prints are the safest for opacity; if you choose white or a pale color, check that the tunic and pants are lined. Many burkini fabrics are tested for sun protection and labeled UPF 50+, which blocks about 98 percent of UV.

Do not swim in cotton or ordinary clothing. Cotton holds water, becomes heavy and drags, and many pools ban it for hygiene reasons. Swim fabric is what makes a burkini safe to swim in.

How a Burkini Should Fit

Loose enough to hide the outline, close enough to swim in. That balance is the whole fit.

A burkini should skim the body rather than hug it or hang off it. The tunic should be roomy enough at the bust, waist and hips to drape without pulling, and the shoulders should allow you to lift your arms above your head. The pants should sit comfortably at the waist with a drawstring or wide band, and fall straight to the ankle without bunching.

Sign What it means What to do
Tunic clings when wet Fabric too thin or cut too close Size up, or choose a textured or lined fabric
Tunic floats up in the water Cut too loose or too long Choose a shorter or more fitted tunic, or one with a weighted or banded hem
Sleeves balloon Cuffs too loose Look for elastic or banded cuffs
Hood slides back No inner cap or face opening too loose Add an inner cap; choose a snugger opening
Pulls across the shoulders Too small, or not enough stretch Size up or choose a fabric with more spandex
Pants drag at the hem Too long Choose a petite length or a cuffed leg

Burkinis are usually sized like clothing, by bust, waist and hips, and many brands sell the tunic and pants together in one size. If your top and bottom are different sizes, look for a brand that sells the pieces separately. If you are tall, check the tunic length and the inseam; if you are petite, a hip-length tunic and a shorter leg will float and drag less.

How a Burkini Behaves in the Water

More fabric means more drag and more water to carry. Good design keeps both down.

Any loose fabric in water adds drag and traps water, so a burkini will always feel different from a fitted swimsuit. The difference is small in a well-made suit and large in a badly made one. Fitted cuffs and ankles, a tunic that is not too long and a fabric that does not absorb water are what keep a burkini light enough to swim properly.

Making It Easier to Swim
For lapsA sport cutA hip-length, closer-fitting tunic and slim leggings cut drag the most.
For the beachA relaxed cutLonger and looser is fine if you are wading, playing or floating rather than swimming laps.
For wavesSecure fasteningsAn attached hood or a well-fitted inner cap stops the head covering being pulled away.
Getting outLet it drainStand for a moment at the edge so water drains from the tunic before you walk.

A wet burkini also feels cooler out of the water than a dry one, because the fabric dries on the skin. On a hot day that is pleasant; in wind or cooler weather, bring a towel or a cover-up for the walk back. Our beach cover-ups guide covers kaftans and other layers that work over a swimsuit.

Burkini vs Other Modest Swimwear

The burkini is the fullest option. Several others cover most of the body without a head covering.

Which parts of the body five modest swimwear options cover: a burkini covers the head, arms, torso, hips and legs; a full-coverage swimsuit covers all but sometimes the head; a rash guard set leaves the head bare; a swim dress with leggings leaves the head and arms bare; a modest one-piece covers mainly the torso What each option coversHeadArmsTorsoHipsLegsBurkiniFull-coverage suitRash guard setSwim dress + leggingsModest one-pieceCoveredDepends on the styleNot covered
How five modest swimwear options compare. Only the burkini, and some full-coverage suits, include a head covering.
Burkini Full-coverage swimsuit Rash guard set Swim dress with leggings
Head Hood or headcover Sometimes No No
Arms Full length Full length Full length Usually bare
Legs Ankle Ankle Ankle Ankle
Fit Loose tunic Varies Close-fitting Fitted bodice, loose skirt
Best for Full modest coverage Coverage with more choice Sun and sport Coverage without sleeves

A full-coverage swimsuit is a broader term for any suit that covers the arms and legs, and a burkini is one type of it. A rash guard with swim leggings covers the arms and legs closely but has no head covering and shows more of the body outline. A swim dress worn with swim leggings covers the torso, hips and legs, and our swim dress guide explains how the skirt behaves in the water. For the full range, from tankinis to long sleeves, see our modest swimwear guide.

Who Wears a Burkini

Designed for modest dress, worn for many reasons.

The burkini was designed so that Muslim women who wear hijab could swim, surf and take part in water sport without compromising their dress code, and that remains its main purpose. It is also worn by women of other faiths with modesty traditions, by people who want full sun protection, by anyone with sensitive skin or a skin condition, by cold-water swimmers who want an extra layer, and by people who simply prefer to swim covered.

There is no single right reason to wear one, and no single right style. The best burkini is the one that covers what you want covered and lets you enjoy the water.

A folded plum burkini set with tunic, swim pants and headcover stacked on a striped beach towel on sand, with a straw tote, a water bottle and sunglasses, and the sea behind
Packed for a beach day: tunic, pants and headcover, plus a towel for the walk back.

Wearing a Burkini at Pools and Beaches

Most pools and beaches welcome burkinis. It is still worth checking the rules before you go.

Pool rules usually focus on fabric and hygiene: they ban cotton, street clothes and loose garments that are not made for swimming. A burkini made from swim fabric meets most of these rules, which is one of the reasons it exists. Some pools and leisure centers publish their own swimwear policies, and a few have restricted burkinis; rules vary by country, city and venue, so check before you visit.

Burkinis have also been the subject of public debate. In 2016, several French coastal towns tried to ban them on beaches, and France's highest administrative court suspended one of those bans the same year. If you are traveling, a quick look at local rules saves an awkward conversation at the door.

Building Coverage at HauteFlair

HauteFlair does not currently carry a full burkini. These pieces add coverage to a modest swim wardrobe.

If you want coverage over the hips and thighs without a full burkini, our modest swimwear collection includes swim dresses, swim skirts and swim shorts. The Sunsets Escape Sienna Swim Dress has a sweetheart neckline, a ruched bodice and a hidden attached bottom; the Sunsets Sporty Swim Skirt has built-in shorts and a wide waistband; and the Natori Power Comfort Active Sport and Swim Short is an opaque stretch short made for swimming and exercise. Availability changes by season, so check each listing for sizes and colors.

Our swim skirt guide and swim shorts guide explain which liners and lengths stay put in the water.

How to Care for a Burkini

The same care as any swimsuit, with a little extra attention to the head covering.

Care Routine
After every swimRinse in cool fresh waterChlorine, salt and sunscreen keep working on the fabric while it sits wet. Rinse the tunic, pants and headcover inside and out.
WashingHand wash or a gentle cycleUse cool water and a mild detergent. Wash the headcover in a mesh bag if it goes in the machine.
DryingFlat or on a hanger, in the shadeSqueeze water out gently in a towel. Never wring, tumble dry or dry it in direct sun, which fades color and weakens stretch.
StorageFully dry, loosely foldedStore only when completely dry, and keep the inner cap and headcover together so they do not get lost.

A burkini has more fabric than most swimsuits, so it takes longer to dry. Hang the tunic by the shoulders or lay it flat, and turn the hood inside out so the inner layer dries too.

Common Burkini Mistakes

Five things that make a burkini uncomfortable or less modest than it should be.

Avoid These
Mistake oneThin, shiny fabricIt clings and can turn sheer when wet. Choose matte, lined or textured fabric.
Mistake twoA tunic that is too looseIt fills with water and floats up. Loose is good; baggy is not.
Mistake threeSkipping the inner capWithout one, the hood or headcover slides back when you swim.
Mistake fourSwimming in cottonCotton holds water, drags and is banned in many pools. Use swim fabric only.
Mistake fiveDrying it in the sunHeat and UV fade color and break down stretch. Dry it in the shade.

Burkini Fitting Checklist

Try these before you take the tags off.

Before You Swim
  • Raise both arms: the tunic should not pull across the shoulders or lift at the hem.
  • Turn your head: the hood or headcover should stay in place and keep the neck covered.
  • Squat and step: the pants should move freely without pulling at the waist.
  • Check the cuffs: wrists and ankles should be snug enough to keep water out.
  • Check opacity: hold the fabric to the light; if it shows through dry, it will show through wet.
  • Check the length: the pants should reach the ankle without dragging under your heel.

What This Means for You

A burkini is a full-coverage swimsuit made of a tunic, swim pants and a hood or headcover, built from swim fabric so it can be worn in the water. It covers everything except the face, hands and feet.

Choose matte, lined or textured fabric in a color that stays opaque, a tunic that skims rather than clings or balloons, fitted cuffs and a head covering with an inner cap. A shorter, closer cut is easier to swim in; a longer, looser cut covers more on land.

Rinse it after every swim, dry it in the shade, and check local pool rules when you travel, and a good burkini will last as long as any other swimsuit.

More swimwear guides

Modest Swimwear, Swim Dress and Swim Skirt

Every level of coverage, the skirted one-piece and the swim skirt, and which liners stay put in the water.

Modest SwimwearSwim DressTypes of Swimsuits

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a burkini?
A burkini is a full-coverage swimsuit made of a long-sleeved tunic, ankle-length swim pants and a hood or swim headcover. It covers everything except the face, hands and feet and is made from swim fabric so it can be worn in the water.
Why is it called a burkini?
The name blends burqa and bikini. Despite the name, a burkini does not cover the face. It was created in the mid-2000s by Australian designer Aheda Zanetti.
Can you swim in a burkini?
Yes. A burkini is made from quick-drying swim fabric and is designed to be swum in. A shorter, closer-fitting tunic and fitted cuffs make swimming easier.
What is the difference between a burkini and modest swimwear?
Modest swimwear is any swimwear that covers more than a standard swimsuit. A burkini is the fullest type, with long sleeves, ankle-length pants and a head covering. Read the modest swimwear guide
Who can wear a burkini?
Anyone. It was designed for Muslim women who wear hijab, and it is also worn for sun protection, sensitive skin, cold water, other faith traditions and personal preference. Shop modest swimwear
Is a burkini see-through when wet?
A good one is not. Choose matte, lined or textured fabric in a mid to dark color. Thin, shiny, single-layer fabric can turn sheer when wet.
How should a burkini fit?
It should skim the body rather than cling or hang loose. The shoulders should let you raise your arms, the cuffs should be snug and the pants should reach the ankle without dragging.
How do I stop my burkini hood from slipping?
Wear an inner swim cap under the hood or headcover and choose a snug face opening. A hood attached to the tunic is also less likely to shift than a separate headcover.
Does a burkini protect from the sun?
Yes. It covers almost all of the skin, and many burkini fabrics are rated UPF 50+, which blocks about 98 percent of UV. Use sunscreen on the face and hands.
Can I wear a burkini in a public pool?
Most pools accept burkinis made from swim fabric, since their rules focus on hygiene and banning street clothes. Policies vary by venue and country, so check before you go.
Is a burkini hot to wear?
Less than you might expect. Swim fabric is light and breathable, and a wet burkini cools as it dries. A lighter headcover helps on very hot days.
What is the difference between a two-piece and a three-piece burkini?
A two-piece has a hood sewn to the tunic, plus pants. A three-piece has a tunic, pants and a separate headcover, which is easier to adjust or replace.
What should I wear under a burkini?
Many people wear nothing underneath if the tunic is lined. Others wear a swimsuit or swim underwear for extra support or opacity. Avoid cotton underwear, which holds water.
How do you wash a burkini?
Rinse it in cool fresh water after every swim, hand wash or use a gentle cycle with mild detergent, and dry it flat or on a hanger in the shade. Never wring or tumble dry it.

This guide covers burkini styles, fabric, fit and care and is for general information. Sizing and construction vary between makers, and pool and beach rules vary by venue and country, so check the product details and local rules before you buy or swim.